Barcaldine

After stopping at Longreach for lunch we drove onto Barcaldine in the strongest head wind we have encountered for some time (although we had encountered a strong wind accross the Barkley) then decided to settling into the Barcaldine Tourist Park - was recommended to stay at the Showgrounds however they were just packing up from a Field Day Event so was not sure if was open for camping.  Friendly Owners of the Barcaldine Tourist Park arranged  Damper and Billy Tea for Happy Hour plus stories and poems told by Tom Lockie, a local identidy who runs the Artesian Country Tours.  Went to the Shakespeare Pub for tea and met owners Heather and Barry - had a great night.

The next day we went to Visitors Centre and for $2 purchased a Heritage Trail booklet which gives history on various sites around town. With booklet in hand we walked around the town and was impressed by the historical buildings plus extensive information offered.  Barcaldine is a country town situated in the heart of Queensland's Outback and was formed when the rail line forged west from Rockhampton in 1886.  It has an interesting and famous history due to its involvement with the Shearer's Stike of 1891.  It is home to the Tree of Knowledge, the reputed birth place of the labour movement in Australia.  During the 1891 Shearer's Strike the Tree was used as a place of inspiration for the shearers and grew in folk law as the birth place of the Labour Party.

The Tree of Knowledge was a Ghost Gum which grew outside the Railway Station for around 180 years. In 2006 it was poisoned by an unknown culprit and after its death the Tree was taken to Brisbane to undergo a world's first preservation process which protected it from fungal and insect attack.  It was then taken back to Barcaldine and placed under the award winning timber structure.

After preservation the Tree was placed under an award winning timber structure

The Tree of knowledge lit up at night.

World War One Memorial Clock - marble clock honours 292 local men who served during the first world war, including the 38 fallen. 

Sidney Williams & Co of Rockhampton built this Windmill in 1917 with a wheel diameter of 8m, is direct acting with a stroke of 6cm and will pump in wind speeds as low as 3km per hour.  It originally pumped the artesian water at Back Creek before being moved into town after the bore was no longer needed.

Masonic Lodge - the comet Freemason's lodge was built in 1901 and is built from iron and timber.  It has a painted facade which has been designed to make the building look like brick.

The Shakespeare Hotel - the original hotel was shifted from Pine Hill by rail in 1886.  It was pulled down and replaced with a larger structure in 1914 with 40 rooms and 250 ft of verandahs but was destroyed by fire in 1924. The new building code resulted in the present day hotel which was opened in December 1925

After a very interesting walk around we stopped at the Shakespeare Hotel for another great meal and drink before heading back to the Van in time for another Happy Hour!

Heading east from the top end

Weather in Darwin was certainly becoming more humid when we left - although the temperature in Katherine was forecast at 48 degrees!  Back down the Stuart Highway we had planned to stay at Gorrie Airstrip but temperature was still 30 degrees plus around 4 o'clock and Helen was looking for some air conditioning relief!  Pulled into Larrimah and set up at Caravan park just behind the Pink Panther Pub.  Air conditioning was quickly on as van temp was 38 degrees and for the first time it stayed on all night! Good for an overnight stay but mozzies everywhere!

Larrimah's Pink Panther Pub, with a very large NT stubbie.

Much better weather the next day and we were entertained along the way with some Red Centre NATS cars returning from the Alice Springs Meet - some on trailers and others being driven. Stopped in at Banka Banka for the night as have always driven by and wondered what it was like.  Quite a few vans camped tonight and we welcomed the cooler evening especially as no power for the A/C.  Glad we stopped, nice lawn in the camp area, however would not be rushing back again to stay.

Banka Banka camp has a couple of old Holdens at the gate.

Attempting some artistic photos - FC Holden

FJ Holden

Continuing south we travelled through a lot of burnt out country with some of the trees burnt out completely - it did not appear to be a controlled burn.  Crossed the border into Queensland and camped at the second waterhole at Camooweal, this is a favourite spot when we travel this way.  Water level had dropped considerably since we were last here so did not stop at our usual spot due to no water view.  Quite a few vans camped at both waterholes.

Having a last read of the NT News before entering Qld
and lucky enough to have a croc on the front page!

One of the very wide loads we had to pull over for and let pass 

Stayed at Mt Isa for a night and did washing, shopping, refuelling and filling of water tank plus was able to watch the Crows have a win as they build up to the AFL Grand Final.  Travelled to Mary Kathleen for a revisit and stayed for 3 nights.  No other campers around us so had a very quiet peaceful 3 nights stay.

Our camp at Mary Kathleen

Sunrise as the moon sets between the trees in the west.

A "Wandering Bare" cairn placed on an old house concrete pad.

All packed up and ready to leave Mary Kathleen when the car would not start - used the Lithium power pack jump start which did the trick however all these lights came on the dashboard including 4WD which was not engaged.  Drove back to the main road to a close parking bay/toilet stop, turned vehicle off for a short time then restarted but lights were still on!  Decided to head back to Mt Isa and see the Toyota Dealer which we did however by the time the Service person came out with his computer, plugged into the car, started the car, all lights had gone off!!! Apparently vehicle needed more time to re-set the computer after the flat battery.  Had we known that we could have travelled further the first time before restarting. However we were also concerned the battery was on its way out.  Back on the road again we headed back past Mary Kathleen and Cloncurry then turned onto the Lansborough Highway towards Winton, stopping at one of our favourite spots the Blue Healer Pub at Kynuna for the night (and of course had a Pub Meal)

Sunset over Kynuna as a single street light shines

Car needed re-booting the next morning again so looks like new battery needs to be bought.  Drove into Winton where we set up at the Caravan Park as once again it was getting quite hot and air conditioning was appreciated.  Went out to see Butch for a new battery however nephew now running the business as sadly Butch is very ill with cancer.

Musical fence is in the background, Helen chose to play the drums.

Ventured down the main street and called into Corfield & Fitzmaurice/Combo Crafts which once was a general store selling all basic essentials for outback survival.  The heritage-listed building now sells craft items and has displays on local wool industry, fossils, opals and a life size dinosaur diorama interpreting the Dinosaur Stampede.  Paid our entry fee to the not so happy lady then enjoyed our time in the display area.  Not real interested in the Dinosaur era but found plenty of information to suit our needs here. Plenty of Dinosaur museums to visit however we did not want to pay the entrance fees to see something we were not really interested in. Visited Arno's Wall - 2m high wall made up of rock from Opalton and studded with a mixture of objects such as washing machines, kitchen sink, various cooking utensils, engines etc etc etc.  Drove around to the Musical Fence which was devised in 2003 by percussionist Graeme Leak - could be entertained for ages with the various music making set ups.  With the day being hot and windy decided to head back to the Van and put air conditioning on.

Life size Dinosaur displayed at Corfield & Fitzmaurice general store

Arno's Wall - 2m high wall made up of rock from Opalton and studded with interesting 'things'