The Wandering Tops

The Wandering Tops

21 January, 2017

Eyre Peninsula


Sunrise looking across Spencer Gulf towards the Flinders Rangers
After leaving Port Pirie we traveled around the top of the Spencer Gulf to Fitzgerald Bay. On the way through Port Augusta we had to empty the toilet cassette at the local Dump Point, a pretty normal operation on most occasion ..... however this time I happen to find a mobile phone left on the post next to the Dump Point, I called the last number and spoke to the owners sister who informed me the owner came from WA and was traveling around Yorke Peninsula.  We decided to have a coffee and see if they returned for the phone.  Unfortunately they did not return so I decided to leave the phone with one of the other caravaners at the site, with my contact details. We headed off towards Whyalla and about an half an hour down the road we received a call saying they had picked the phone up and was also heading in the same direction. We turned off highway to Pt Lowly then drove down to Lighthouse and Pt Bonython but wasn't keen to stay there so continued onto Fitzgerald Bay where we found a great camp spot overlooking the water  (needed to be self sufficient). 

As we came over the range this was our first view of Fitzgerald Bay

Our camp at Fitzgeald Bay only 20 m from the waters edge, I'm standing on the Shingle Ridge to take this photo.

Our camp was just on the sea side of the Shingle Beach Ridges which is a geological phenomenon of moderately sorted rounded pebbles which form flat topped ridges. These have been traced over some 50 kms from near the head of Spencer Gulf and can be easily seen here at Fitzgerald Bay.

Shingle Beach Ridges
Stayed at this great spot for a couple of nights and during our stay we had a little Suzuki pull up and a lady asking about camping in the area, and noticing WA number plates, I asked if her husband had lost his phone. Much to her surprise we explained we were the ones who found it - we all found it astonishing that we have met up and they were very thankful.  Lyn & Graham were travelling in a bus and towing a trailer and when we said we were leaving next day they were keen to take our site. They were there before we had packed up next morning!  They called themselves 'the travelling circus' - the bus was towing an enclosed car trailer with a small workshop and quad bike plus the Suzuki, with a boat on top! What other toys would a man want?

Reluctantly we left Fitzgerald Bay, called into Whyalla for supplies and another eventful stop at the dump site - thought the concrete was black however upon emptying the cassette I discovered it was covered in black ants!! This made me jump around alot, Hels thought I had lost the plot. From Whyalla we turned onto Lincoln Highway and called into Cowell for lunch then onto Pt Gibbon where we found a great spot overlooking the ocean.

The main street of Cowell

Campsite overlooking Spencer Gulf near Pt Gibbon only enough room for the chairs to take in the view.

View from 'our' beach to Pt Gibbon

Looking north along the beach as the storm rolled in.
Our spot was wonderful until late afternoon when a storm was brewing and we had a million flying ants surround the van - they shed their wings and died. As the wind got stronger, we wound the awning up including all the dead flying ants!! All of a sudden this great spot was not so great afterall as the wind picked up and all night we were being rocked around in the van and listening to a roaring sea.  In the morning we had sea salt residue all down one side of the car and van and with a storm warning issued, decided to leave.

Continued on Lincoln Highway calling into Arno Bay, Tumby Bay before deciding we were sick of the wind and drove inland to Cummins where we stayed a night at the Caravan park.  Were able to put the awning out and wash off all the ants - did a bit of drive around the town with Hels doing a lot of reminiscing of her childhood. Had dinner at the pub and got a great night sleep with no howling wind or waves crashing, much to Hels relief!

Leaving Cummins we took a dirt track to Kopio where we spent quite some time in the Kopio Smithy Museum (refer to separate blog entry). Continued past White Flat to Poonindie, then onto Helen's cousins house overlooking Boston Bay at Pt Lincoln. They have a stunning garden and we had a fantastic time with Rosie & Bill - really appreciated their wonderful hospitality.

Front garden of Rosie & Bill at Pt Lincoln, just see the van on the RHS.
We cooked bacon and eggs Australia Day breakfast for them before setting off on a sightseeing tour including lunch at Coffin Bay down by the jetty, tour around Coffin Bay, drove to Kellidie Bay taking the track through the shacks, visit to Pig & Antique Shop at Wangary (interesting!!), visited Dutton Bay, drove along Farm Beach where people were enjoying Australia Day. Back home for a terrific feed of Pt Lincoln whiting and yellow belly - what a great Australia Day!


Coffee at Pig & Antique Shop, Wangary

19 January, 2017

Yorke Peninsula

We had coffee before leaving from Auburn as needed to try the new coffee machine purchased for my birthday! Worked a treat! Drove to Pt Wakefield and arrived around lunch time just had to visit the Bakery for a curry pie. Travelled through Maitland and onto Dave & Shelly's property before Balgowan and set up in bush camp with short drop toilet (due to limestone close to top soil!), and a great outdoor shower over an old bath. Nice and quiet as only ones there apart from the very, very friendly flies.

Mallee Bush Camp with outdoor shower

One of the old trucks, great photo opportunity


Next day we drove to Balgowan to stay with Naomi & Kevin where we parked the van on the footpath.  The next day we hopped into their 60 series Toyota and drove through tracks to Cape Elizabeth, followed by pub lunch at Moonta then Icecream & Coffee at Gelati Cafe (a must to visit!!).

Camped outside on the footpath

Balgowan across the bay

Stopped at an old building on our beach drive to Elizabeth Point

After a wonderful stay - huge thanks to Naomi & Kevin for their hospitality, we left and headed to Maitland, then across to Ardrossan for lunch another Bakery! Stopped into Pt Vincent before arriving in Stansbury and catching up with good friends for a few hours in the afternoon.  The Caravan parks were full (as we anticipated at this time of the year), so drove to Yorketown where we stayed at a nice quiet Park for 2 nights.
Port Vincent
Drove back to Stansbury next day to visit the Markets then in afternoon drove to Point Turton to visit a lady Helen used to work with in Adelaide.  Helen and Brenda had a great catch up then it was back to Yorketown for dinner at the York Pub (great meal).

Once again a leisurely departure before taking a scenic drive to Marion Bay via Corny Point, where we had lunch at a picnic spot overlooking the sea.  Arrived late afternoon to Marion Bay where we pulled into John & Gayle's driveway, staying for two nights.  Went for a walk around the streets and over the headland to the beach - sighted a couple of dolphins which made Helen's day.

Stenhouse Bay jetty
Cape Spencer light house

Over looking the Ethel wreck, you can just see the boiler remains on the beach.

Some of the dolphines

Next day we drove to Innes National Park stopping at Stenhouse Bay for a walk along the jetty, drove passed Chinamen's Hat, stopping at Cape Spencer where we walked up to lighthouse and took in the fantastic scenery. Next it was Ethel Beach to view the wreck which was more exposed than when we were there 30 odd years ago, West Cape, Pondalowie beach, then walked along the boardwalk to Pondalowie Surf Break where we were entertained by a pod of dolphins. The Scenery along this coast is fantastic and with the brilliant green colour of the sea completed a picturesque drive. From here we headed back again calling into Inneston Historic Township but did not walk all around as the weather was very hot and the march flies were particularly nasty biting everyone except Gayle!  Back to Marion Bay where we had a great feed of locally caught whiting.  Thank you Gayle & John for your wonderful hospitality - we had a great time!

Port Rickaby jetty damaged from the storms
Time to head off - we drove back to Warooka to the dump point, then onto Minlaton for lunch, temperature 40 degrees!  Drove out to Port Rickaby where we set up at the Caravan Park for the night.  Had a swim which refreshed us - looking forward to the expected cool change later in the evening.  Very windy - Helen nagged to get the awning down early and glad we did as wind became very strong and most people in the park finished up pulling their awnings down.
Port Victoria jetty, also damaged from the storms
Artherton Bike Lane

Much cooler in the morning but still windy which made it interesting towing the van and didn't help the fuel consumption.  Called into Port Victoria for a look then onto Maitland and Arthurton, arriving in Kadina at lunchtime (handy again as they have a nice Bakery!).  Temperature again was 41 degrees so decided to stay at Kadina Caravan Park and put air conditioner on!  Later in afternoon I rode around the town on the bike, checking out the sites!  From Kadina we called into Wallaroo for a look around then stopped at Port Broughton for coffee - nice spot overlooking the jetty with plenty of people heading down for fishing.  Continued onto Port Pirie where we stayed in Pt Pirie Beach Caravan Park - arriving in 42 degree heat!  Stocked up with shopping before heading to Ursula & Michael's for tea - great to catch up with Tyson, Lu and baby Ted for a short time.  After a lovely meal, many laughs and a few reds and whisky Hels drove back to Caravan Park in steamy weather as rain had come but did not cool things down.  In the morning rain continued which did drop the temperature but decided to stay another day - Helen seems to think it was because I was a bit sluggish in the morning!!