The Wandering Tops

The Wandering Tops

15 April, 2019

Oonadatta Track

After stocking up at Port Augusta we headed further north, this time we, or should I say I, wanted to revisit some of the attractions on the Oodnadatta Track so we headed up through the Flinders Ranges. It's a nice drive north having the colours of the range to the right especially with the afternoon sun reflecting on the mountain range.
Flinders Ranges at Parachilna
Our first night was at Farina (est 1878), 25 km north of Lyndhust and our first section of dirt road. We had previously stayed here in September 2014 on our way to Adelaide after the Birdsville races. It was a lot dryer and more dustier (no green grass) this time but still a good overnight stop. I took the opportunity to take some sunset photos of the town, always a good photo opportunity.
Parked outside the information board with the Transcontinental Hotel across the road.

The Farina ruins at sunset
Next morning we got away early enough to make it to Marree another 54km north for coffee. The only place we could find a coffee was at the General store / service station. We didn't have a lot of faith in the quality of coffee we could expect, however it was a great coffee strong to our liking served in a white mug!
Inside the general store at Marree
 The photo's on the wall are from Julie Fletcher, a local photographer I follow in Instagram #julie_fletcher_photography_
Mutonia Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek
 After coffee we headed off on the Oodnadatta Track towards William Creek another 205 km. Our first stop was "Plane Henge" or Mutonia Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek, 53 km west of Marree.  The sculpture park is the creation of artist Robin Mutoid, who collects "junk" and turns it into sculptures. He ventures up from Victoria each year and creates a new piece of art.
Different view from the air.
'Big Dog' - Mutonia Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek
The water tank sculpture made into "The big dog", his head is a car body.
The planes were stood up using manual labour and I understand were the first sculptures at the park.
From the sculptures we continued west stopping at  Lake Eyre South lookout, where we thought we could see water flowing in from the north. We had lunch here but as the flies had become "friendly" we sat in the van.  Only a short distance further along the track we stopped at Curdimurka rail siding, dating from 1880 is the last remaining station yard of significant left intact on the Old Ghan Line.

View of Lake Eyre South

Curdimurka Rail Siding, used from 1986 until 1990's for the Curdimurka Outback Ball.
Unfortunately the Curdimurka Outback Ball isn't held anymore.
The Curdimurka Water Tank and tower.
Called into see 'The Bubbler' in the Wabma Kadarbu Mound Spring Conservation Park and part of the Lake Eyre Supergroup.  It has the highest discharge of any individual spring in the Lake Eyre Supergroup and the spring is called 'the Bubbler'  because it has been known to 'erupt' every so often. With millions of flies I also visited another spring called 'Blanche Cup' which does not appear to erupt as often as 'the Bubbler'.  Entry/Exit road was very rough and corrugated.

The Bubbler,
if you look closely you can just see a bubble coming to the surface.

Blanche Cap
Drove onto Coward Springs where we stayed the night and enjoyed the spa.  Night was quite warm and very still.  Mosquitoes were very vicious! Helen not impressed as quite a bit of dust in the Van!


Coward Springs hot tub, a pleasant relief from the flies.
Oonadatta Track
Helen not impressed with the amount of dust getting in the van.

Optus, yes
Helen was impressed with having mobile service and I didn't.
Set up at the William Creek Caravan Park then turned the air con on and sat inside for majority of the time.  Very warm outside and millions of flies. I booked in for a Scenic Flight over Lake Eyre next day, subject to having other booking to share the flight with.

William Creek Pub


After booking the flight we also decided to have a pub meal that night, we enjoyed a good Pub meal then back to the van as quick as possible to avoid the mozzies!  The next day I had my flight over Lake Eyre in the morning, (refer to separate blog).  In the afternoon I went to get diesel and when paying for it in the Pub I met Helen's nephew Bruce who was flying with 9 mates from Tintinara to Birdsville and was calling in for lunch on their way home.  Went back and picked up Helen who got a huge surprise! Unbelieveable the people you come across in the most remote places.
Pub dinner and a SA beer - West End Draught

Surprise face in the pub.

We left William Creek early the next day and turned off the Oonadatta track to head for Coober Pedy and the bitumen road, only 168 km away. The road was generally good however there were a couple of bull dust holes to watch out for, one in particular was about 30 metres long and when we went through the dust fell onto the car and caravan like talcum powder. However all was good when we arrived in Coober Pedy and  had the opportunity to clean the car and van. :)

Helen has put her foot down and told me this is the last time we take the Caravan (our home) along rough 'tracks'!!
The dust was inside and out from the Oodnadatta Track.

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