Heading up the Centre

Our lunch stop at Barrow Creek

After four days in Alice Springs it was time to mover further north.  The Easter break was over so we expected the roads to have less traffic and it did appear to be the case.  We also remarked that there wasn't many caravans on the road, I think it was too early in the season for the southerners to be heading north. There wasn't much or anything that we wanted to stop and look at so our aim was to get to The Devils Marbles tonight for camp. Apart from our normal coffee and leg stretching stops we stopped for lunch at Barrow Creek, it was hot and the flies still very pest so ate in the caravan before continuing.

Oh boy, the flies
Designed a new fly net - left over mesh from the door fly screen.
 worked a treat!!

We pulled into the Devils Marbels with plenty of time to explore and plenty of spots to choose from, but still the flies were very present!!! I got the drone out for some different photo shots while Helen stayed in the van away from the flies.  That night we had about 10 other caravans camping in the area which is not many considering on other occasions we had stayed there had been 30 plus camping overnight.
I was up early to get some sunrise photos, hopefully before the flies had woken up, it seemed like they found me within 30 seconds of getting out the van so I choose to ignore them and try to get some good photos.

Early afternoon, plenty of room in the campground.

View looking north over the Devils Marbles, the Stuart Hwy in top LH corner 

Reflections just before sunrise

Just before the sunrise, most people still sleeping, but not the flies!!

Reflections on the stone at sunrise

Eventually the flies got the better of me, so I took my camera and headed back to the van for breakfast, inside without flies.
As we hadn't unhooked that night we finished breakfast and made a hasty departure around 8.30 am continuing on our way north.  Stopped for fuel at Tennant Creek and felt that the flies had become much more bearable, in fact hardly noticeable.

As we could feel the humidity increasing we thought we might try and make Daily Waters Pub the next night.  It had been a few years since we had stayed there and previously was in January or February when we were heading back to Darwin and this was our last stop in a motel room before home.  This was the start of the tourist season so we could check out the entertainment and try the caravan park out, which many caravaners claim to be a good night. We felt we had reached the territory and the atmosphere we enjoy - it was a balmy night, sitting outside enjoying the entertainment and a few territory characters in the pub to add additional entertainment.

A balmy night at the pub, entertained by Mary-anne.

We left Daily Waters around 9am the next morning and drove to Gorrie WWII Airstrip about 70km for our first stop.  I'm always keen to stay there overnight but at this time of the year it's far too hot to enjoy, so had some lunch and headed to Mataranka, Bitter Springs another 85km. We like to stay at the Cabin and Caravan park as it's an easy walk to Bitter Springs for a dip in the spring and float down stream with your noodle. Again the park had plenty of room so was able to select a nice shady site and stayed for 2 nights.

Cooling down at Bitter Springs

We had stopped at a couple of different place on this trip up the centre and the next night was at Pine Creek, again we hadn't stayed there previously so checked into the Lazy Lizard.  As the park is behind the pub it was another opportunity for a pub meal.  The grounds where well kept with nice garden and green lawn around the sites.  The pool was most inviting and so we had a dip before dinner during which we felt a few spots of rain but nothing much.

Pool at the Lazy Lizard
You may spot our caravan thru the fence behind Helen and the bar was just through the gate on the right.

From Pine Creek it was only another 200km to Darwin, an easy drive the next day.

West MacDonnell Ranges

From Coober Pedy we were back on bitumen travelling up the Stuart Highway - boring for me, no dust for Helen!  Topped up with fuel at Marla then again at Kulgera where we stayed the night at the Caravan Park, we were lucky to get the last powered site - late at night the wind changed to a cool southerly and Helen had to shut all windows as wind was extremely strong.

Always nice to be back in the Territory.

Leaving Kulgera the temperature had dropped to 10 degrees and wind was strong however no flies!  Travelling with a tail wind up the Stuart Highway we stopped for coffee at Erldunda and decided not to go to Ayres Rock (Uluru) as it was school holidays which included Easter and there would be heaps of people.  With the news that the Rock would not be opened for climbing after October, a lot of people were heading there to climb it for the last time.  In Alice Springs we stayed in Wintersun Caravan Park, nice grassed sites, for 4 nights. While there we washed the van down, had the car serviced at Outback Mechanical NT, who I could highly recommend, even provided a loan ute!

The flys had been pretty bad this trip and still very friendly.

Went for a drive out to the West MacDonnell Ranges to Glen Helen Gorge where we even got our fly nets out to defend ourselves against the millions of flies.  After Glen Helen we drove up to Mt Sonder lookout then onto Ormiston Gorge where we had lunch at the small cafe near the car park, even inside the flies seemed to find us, but less in numbers. Travelled to the Oche Pits where desert Aboriginal people once used as a quarry for ochre pigments; Ellery Creek - the waterhole is fed by the West MacDonnell Ranges and surrounded by high red cliffs and sandy Ellery Creek. This was enough gorges for the day so headed back to Alice for a cool shower and a cold beer.  On the next day we went back to complete the West MacDonnell Ranges gorges and visited Standley Chasm ($10 each entry fee, thank you!) where the walk in took us through burnt out countryside then completing the gorges at Simpson Gap.
We called into a Camping Shop to purchase a new flask as after 40 years ours has died but had seen lots of Australian outback roads over the years! So we had a new flask to continue our travels north.

Started at the most western gorge, Glen Helen. A few were cooling off in the water which looked most inviting.

Another very popular spot, Ormiston Gorge, We had lunch at the small kiosk near the car park.

Outstanding colours of the Ochre Pits - "Tjoritja"

Ellery Creek Big Hole

Serpentine Gorge

Arriving at Standley Chasm

Only waited for a few minutes before the crowd had left to get the photo with the colour and Hels.

On the walk in we passed a lot of area burn out by a recent fire about 9 weeks earlier.

Walk into Simpson Gap was more impressive with the large gum trees.

The Breakaways

Moon rising over The Breakaways

On arriving at Coober Pedy we stayed in Oasis Tourist Park for 2 nights and had a drive through site with power and water, and again was quite hot - 38 degrees however flies not as bad.  Great to cool van down with air conditioning. Had to make a couple of repairs to the caravan as when we stopped for morning tea, before arriving at Coober Pedy the top of the hot plates had became loose and nearly slid off. Also went around and checked the tightness of all the screws. For dinner that night we had a mandatory pizza - a must if staying in Coober Pedy is to get a Pizza from John's Pizza Bar - great pizzas! I was able to get the bike out and took an early morning ride around Coober Pedy.

On my early morning ride

Next day we drove out to Kanku - Breakaways Conservation Park which is an Aboriginal Heritage Site, 23 kms north of Coober Pedy.  The Park covers almost 15,000 hectares featuring majestic arid scenery and home to almost 60 native flora species including acacias, mallee and eremophilia.  It is also home to a variety of wildlife including red kangaroos, euro, echidna, numerous bird species and the fat-tailed dunnart (a mouse-like marsupial).  Once in the Park the road runs parallel to the Dog Fence for a few kilometers.  The Dog Fence is a pest-exclusion fence that was built in Australia during the 1880s and finished in 1885, to keep dingoes out of the relatively fertile south-east part of the continent and protect the sheep flocks of southern Queensland.  The Dog Fence is 5,614 kms in length - it is one of the longest structures in the world.  Stopped at Salt and Pepper (2 dogs) - this outcrop has been used in a number of films and advertisements, while Panorama Hill situated in the middle, features in Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome and Ground Zero.  With the sun on these outcrops the colours are spectacular. Positioned ourselves on the 1st Lookout to watch the sunset, which was nice however the full moon rising was spectacular.

The dog fence

Many Emus running along the fence line

Breakaways from No 2 lookout

From No 1 lookout

Papa or Two Dogs
To the traditional owner this formation is known as 2 dogs sitting down, a brown one and a white one.

We waited to watch the full moon rise 

Just magnificent colours

Full Moon

Lake Eyre

I had booked a 1 hour scenic flight with Wrightsair from William Creek over Lake Eyre. This was subject to getting other passengers to fill the plane.  Luckily a SA family had decided to take a flight so it was all confirmed and we headed off the next morning.

This is one of my favourite photos of the water flowing into the Lake.

To help balance the plane I got to sit up front (sometimes weight can be an advantage) with the pilot so had a great view. The 1 hour flight covered the lower section of Lake Eyre North, flying over Belt Bay, the lowest point in Australia then north where we saw the water flowing through and across to Warburton Groove as the water flowed down. Returning to William Creek observing some of the cattle station tracks and water holes.

This was an opportunity I couldn't miss to see Lake Eyre with water flowing into it which made a spectacular sight, and one which I will never forget.

Plane and trusty pilot, this was once we had returned.

The 1 hour flight basically shown in yellow.

The Warburton Groove, indicates a main flow of water to the southern end.

Water flowing into the Lake, I think it was about 50% full at this point in time.

Belt Bay
The wind across the lake was creating a foam effect on the water.

Belt Bay

William Creek from the air.

Oonadatta Track

After stocking up at Port Augusta we headed further north, this time we, or should I say I, wanted to revisit some of the attractions on the Oodnadatta Track so we headed up through the Flinders Ranges. It's a nice drive north having the colours of the range to the right especially with the afternoon sun reflecting on the mountain range.

Flinders Ranges at Parachilna

Our first night was at Farina (est 1878), 25 km north of Lyndhust and our first section of dirt road. We had previously stayed here in September 2014 on our way to Adelaide after the Birdsville races. It was a lot dryer and more dustier (no green grass) this time but still a good overnight stop. I took the opportunity to take some sunset photos of the town, always a good photo opportunity.

Parked outside the information board with the Transcontinental Hotel across the road.

The Farina ruins at sunset

Next morning we got away early enough to make it to Marree another 54km north for coffee. The only place we could find a coffee was at the General store / service station. We didn't have a lot of faith in the quality of coffee we could expect, however it was a great coffee strong to our liking served in a white mug!

Inside the general store at Marree
 The photo's on the wall are from Julie Fletcher, a local photographer I follow in Instagram #julie_fletcher_photography_

Mutonia Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek

 After coffee we headed off on the Oodnadatta Track towards William Creek another 205 km. Our first stop was "Plane Henge" or Mutonia Sculpture Park, Alberrie Creek, 53 km west of Marree.  The sculpture park is the creation of artist Robin Mutoid, who collects "junk" and turns it into sculptures. He ventures up from Victoria each year and creates a new piece of art.

Different view from the air.

The water tank sculpture made into "The big dog", his head is a car body.

The planes were stood up using manual labour and I understand were the first sculptures at the park.

From the sculptures we continued west stopping at  Lake Eyre South lookout, where we thought we could see water flowing in from the north. We had lunch here but as the flies had become "friendly" we sat in the van.  Only a short distance further along the track we stopped at Curdimurka rail siding, dating from 1880 is the last remaining station yard of significant left intact on the Old Ghan Line.

View of Lake Eyre South

Curdimurka Rail Siding, used from 1986 until 1990's for the Curdimurka Outback Ball.
Unfortunately the Curdimurka Outback Ball isn't held anymore.

The Curdimurka Water Tank and tower.

Called into see 'The Bubbler' in the Wabma Kadarbu Mound Spring Conservation Park and part of the Lake Eyre Supergroup.  It has the highest discharge of any individual spring in the Lake Eyre Supergroup and the spring is called 'the Bubbler'  because it has been known to 'erupt' every so often. With millions of flies I also visited another spring called 'Blanche Cup' which does not appear to erupt as often as 'the Bubbler'.  Entry/Exit road was very rough and corrugated.

The Bubbler,
if you look closely you can just see a bubble coming to the surface.

Blanche Cap

Drove onto Coward Springs where we stayed the night and enjoyed the spa.  Night was quite warm and very still.  Mosquitoes were very vicious! Helen not impressed as quite a bit of dust in the Van!

Coward Springs hot tub, a pleasant relief from the flies.

Oonadatta Track
Helen not impressed with the amount of dust getting in the van.

Optus, yes
Helen was impressed with having mobile service and I didn't.

Set up at the William Creek Caravan Park then turned the air con on and sat inside for majority of the time.  Very warm outside and millions of flies. I booked in for a Scenic Flight over Lake Eyre next day, subject to having other booking to share the flight with.

William Creek Pub

After booking the flight we also decided to have a pub meal that night, we enjoyed a good Pub meal then back to the van as quick as possible to avoid the mozzies!  The next day I had my flight over Lake Eyre in the morning, (refer to separate blog).  In the afternoon I went to get diesel and when paying for it in the Pub I met Helen's nephew Bruce who was flying with 9 mates from Tintinara to Birdsville and was calling in for lunch on their way home.  Went back and picked up Helen who got a huge surprise! Unbelieveable the people you come across in the most remote places.

Pub dinner and a SA beer - West End Draught

Surprise face in the pub.

We left William Creek early the next day and turned off the Oonadatta track to head for Coober Pedy and the bitumen road, only 168 km away. The road was generally good however there were a couple of bull dust holes to watch out for, one in particular was about 30 metres long and when we went through the dust fell onto the car and caravan like talcum powder. However all was good when we arrived in Coober Pedy and  had the opportunity to clean the car and van. :)

Helen has put her foot down and told me this is the last time we take the Caravan (our home) along rough 'tracks'!!

The dust was inside and out from the Oodnadatta Track.