Farina, SA

We had passed Farina ruins on several occasions when travelling north but can't recall stopping to look at the historic town or stay at the camping area. So on this trip after 3 days travelling along the Birdsville track we decided to spend time at Farina.

Farina was proclaimed a town on 21/3/1878 - originally called "Government Gums", but later called "Farina" (Latin for flour) by Governor Jervois.  Original plans was to grow wheat but the climate proved unsuitable. Farina was the railhead from Pt Augusta from 2/5/1882 to 1884 when the line was extended first to Marree and then to Alice Springs.  The line closed in 1980's & was removed in 1993. Afghan camel drivers lived on Afghan Hill (eastern side of the town).  They brought in wool from the stations and delivered supplies to them.  Chinese came to Farina as construction workers on the railway and some stayed on as gardeners.  A School opened in 1879, Hotels "Transcontinental" &  "Exchange", Post Office, savings bank, telegraph station, police station, Anglican & Catholic churches, general stores, bakery, brewery, blacksmith, saddlery, hospital & butchery - the town was finally deserted in the 1980's but in its heyday the population reached approx 300 residents.

Several groups have taken on restoring the ruins and have established information boards and signposts which shows interesting history on the town and is thoroughly worth the visit.

The New Police Station 1935 to 1950

Farina Cemetery - quite detailed information boards giving info on pioneer families buried in this cemetery. The cemetery was last used in 1960. 

Chimneys are the site of  Patterson's House and Butcher Shop 1915-1989 with the underground Bakery in background

Underground Bakery - volunteers have restored this Bakery and has become operational during some of the restoration projects

Transcontinental Hotel (1878-1928)
Bush Nursing Hospital (1928-1945)
Boarding House (1945-1955)

Back of Transcontinental Hotel ruins

 Farina Cricket Ground - the resident ghost batsman! 

Another view of Transcontinental Hotel

The owners of the station run the camping ground which has recently had shower and toilet upgrades and provides hot showers when the donkey boiler is fired up.  Lovely spot to camp with plenty of space and trees.

Camping area approx 1km from Farina Ruins

Local chicks!

Down the track

Around midday on Monday 8/9 we decided to make a move down the track as majority of the Race Goers had already left.  Had a magnificent breakfast at the local Bakery (enough food to last a few days!!).   In hindsight being at the 'back of the pack' may not have been the best option ........ why? The track was not in the best condition, may be due to the amount of traffic which had traveled up and back to the races - probably the worst condition we had experienced in our previous travels. Generally the rocks were exposed - almost looking like a cobblestone effect, which certainly kept the average speed down.  At times when the track was in better condition we were able to get up to 60kph!

Just over the boarder in SA and the corrugations started.

Uninterrupted view for miles and miles in the Sturt Stoney Desert

We camped out twice on the track - first at Tippipila Creek Bush Camp (approx 200kms).  This camp even had flushing toilets!!  Were able to do a bit of  'maintenance' as vibrations caused a few "interesting incidents"!

Sunrise over the looo at Tippipila Creek Bush Camp

Mungerannie Pub

Next day travelling the road conditions had improved slightly although still not able to get above 60kph.  We experienced very strong cross winds and drove into a dust storm around Mungerannie.  With the strong wind we managed to collect quite a bit of the dust in the van.  By this time Helen was constantly reminding me that this was our home I was dragging down the Track and each time we stopped there seemed to be something that needed attention - not happy Hels!!

It was around Mungerannie the strong winds blew creating a dusty mist, not that pleasant!! 

Had planned to stay at Coopers Creek however on arrival the dust was blowing into our sandwiches so decided to drive further on to escape the conditions.  Was a great move as we stayed at Clayton Station (approx 54kms NE Marree) which was well worth the visit.  They had hot showers, flushing toilers and even a hot tub!!

Was the end of another windy day of dust and rough roads - a hot tub was most welcoming.

At Clayton camped with 2 other couples who had already started to fill the hot tub with warm spring water ..... oh so relaxing.

This monument south of Maree in 2012 commemorates the 150th anniversary of the crossing from Adelaide to Van Dieman Gulf by John McDouall Stuart

Stopped for a coffee in Maree - Helen pleased as finally of the Birdsville Track!  Traveled onto Farina for our next camp.

Birdsville Races 2014

We arrived at Birdsville on the Monday before the race meeting which starts on Friday with the running of the Birdsville Cup on the Saturday (1st Saturday in September).  This would give us time to settle in and also take in the atmosphere and other events leading up to the big day.

It was just as well ............ when we drove through Birdsville it was busy as expected but when we went out to the free camping area between Birdsville and the Diamantina River, we were blown away with the large number of groups already there and also the number of caravans.  Birdsville is a town with a normal population of 115 people, during the racing carnival it grows to estimated 7,000 people (which we thought were already here!)

Birdsville Race track, racing first Saturday in September

I would have estimated that more than 2,000 caravans (all types)  were camped in and around Birdsville.  The caravan park has a total of 1000 sites (54 powered) which seemed full by Friday of camper trailers, caravans and swags.  The remaining camped between the town and the race track, which is where we were.

At least 2,000 caravans seemed to be camping out from town

Will we all fit??

Our camp

The first time for our new camp fire, cooking stew.

The Shell service station is across from the caravan park, this was also the general store with a small selection of essential supplies and some fresh vegies.  The workshop was always busy repairing tyres and recovering vehicles which needed assistance.

There was always a long line up for fuel, with only 2 service stations in town, Shell being the most popular even though 3 cents a litre more than the Mogas. 

On Wednesday the carnival activities started, they had yoga sessions in the morning for the early risers a fun run (6.5km) from the race track to town across the old Diamentina crossing.

Fun Run on Wednesday

In 2007 due to the Equine flu virus no horses competed at Birdsville, so to entertain those who had come to watch a horse race the organizers ran what is now known as the Equine Games.  This is now run on the Thursday before the Birdsville races and still includes other games and an opportunity to raise more money for the RFDS.  The events were hilarious and combined with quick witted and sometime risque commentary, it certainly set up the carnival atmosphere which carried on over the remaining days.

The crowd gathers in front of the Hotel for the Equine Games

Entertainment before and during the games

The crowd is building in and outside the pub

Horses ready

Enterained by S. T. Ruth and her "pool boy" while jockeys are getting ready, you can see here the beer can is used to roll the string around and pulls the horses to the finish line.

She's a real cracker of a girl !!

Racing

Crowd gathered as the games continued

Contestants had to place a toilet brush in between their legs, run to their partner who had a toilet roll between their legs, put the toilet roll on the brush (no hands to assist), then run back to the finish line with toilet roll on the toilet brush.

From Tuesday 2/9 through to Sunday 7/9 the organizers had planned different entertainment for the multitudes enjoyment & raising money for RFDS including:  History of the Birdsville Races - the concept of this iconic race meeting & how it came to be;  Cultural Presentation - traditional owners of the Wangkangurru & Yarluyandi land;  Photographic Exhibition - local entries showing landscape & characters of the Diamantina; Movies - Last Mail from Birdsville & The Back of Beyond; Book signings - Sue Williams; Bush Cricket; RFDS Cocktail Party; Fred Brophy's Boxing Troupe; Music Concerts + free live entertainment at the Birdsville Pub from 6pm onwards, plus many more.  We thought the organizers did a fantastic job both in providing entertainment and facilities throughout the carnival.

Some lads dressed in hessian sacks traveled in a Oldsmobile to Birdsville

A star attraction to the Birdsville Races is Fred Brophy, an Australian icon. He's a fourth generation showman who still operates his boxing tent – the last of its kind in the world. He has spent his whole life on the road as a forth generation showman.  In 1960's Fred set up his own Boxing Tent and has been touring outback Qld.  

Fred Brophy announcing the boxers

We attended the Races on Saturday which included the running of the Birdsville Cup. Caught the bus out to the track, found a good spot undercover (shade all day) where we sat and soaked up the atmosphere.  Geoff has been a couple of times to the Races with "the boys" however this was my first visit and I must say I had a ball.  Watched the Race Fashion Competition (oh yes some do dress up equivalent to the Melbourne Cup), but I must say when the dust blew some of the outfits were not practical! !  Still they looked beautiful - even some of the men were dressed to kill.  We had a few bets and at the end of the day came out about even.  Caught the bus back to our camp for a quick shower & refresh then back into town for some more festivities.

Lucky enough to get a set under the pavilion

These are NOT the jockeys, we caught the bus to the races with this lot, it's a wonder it stopped.  Many people and groups dress up in all sorts of attire for the races.

General admission area 

A lot more refined, corporate tent area.

The Birdsville Cup, my horse ran 4th ...... bugger!!

Another icon at Birdsville is the Bakery - a must visit!

Enjoying a Curried Camel pie ...... yum

There was a mass exodus Saturday after the race, Sunday and Monday morning. We waited until after the rush and left after lunch Monday, heading south down the track.

Middleton, Qld (Hilton Hotel) & The Bilby Way

After having the Throttle body on the Tojo replaced ($$$) at Charter Towers we started heading west in the general direction of Boulia passing through Hughenden again and Winton.

The first overnight stop was at the town of Corfield about 83km North East of Winton.  Corfield was established in the late 19th century when the railway line between Hughenden and Winton was built. This line carried wool at least once a week during the shearing season and the towns population peaked at around 30 to 40 people.  Today the town has a sporting club and the population peaks when the Corfield Cup is run and punters come to experience the real "Corfield Cup".

The Corfield free camp, we finished up with about 10 cmpers this night

At 5 O'Clock the pub (community sporting club) is opened for drinks and a meal

We couldn't pass up on a beer and a $10 meal, "to support the locals"

The next morning we traveled to Winton - on arrival the engine warning light came on again bugger!!!. Being a Saturday the local mechanic "Butch" was open in the morning but couldn't do any repairs.  Fortunately he also had the appropriate instruments to hook up and diagnose the fault. Would recommend "Butch" at Central Motors Winton. The light indicated the same fault which was repaired previously.  During the diagnosis the light went off, so, was it all good again??  We did a test run 30km out of town and back all seemed great so a decision was made to press on rather than stay in Winton until Monday (we are now in Adelaide when writing this post and the light has not come back on!).

We eventually decided to press on towards Boulia with the intention of stopping at the "Hilton Hotel" Middleton about 120km west of Winton.

Middleton Qld, an oasis 

Last section of road and barren country side coming into Middleton

We pulled up at the Hilton Hotel, only camping available ....... no beer!!

Decision was made to cross the road to the Middleton Pub

For a beer on the veranda

 Even though the Middleton Pub had cold beer we decided not to stay at the "Hilton Hotel" camp that night but rather travel towards Hamilton Hotel ruins. This was a good decision, not only did we have less flies when travelling but the well established camping area had flushing toilets and shower - cold & extremely refreshing!

Hamilton Hotel ruins, 77km east of Boulia

Drove through many kms of yellow plains (Mitchell grass) to Boulia then onto Bedourie. Decided not to stay at Bedourie although people we have spoken to since had enjoyed their stay @ the Council Caravan Park.  We headed bush and found a lovely quiet spot on Kings Creek (approx 21kms from Bedourie). This waterhole on Kings Creek was a favourite overnight stop for Afgan cameleers travelling the track between Birdsville and Bedourie.  The natural stone causeway was also an excellent crossing point.

Waddi Trees (Acacia Puece) outside Boulia are a rare and ancient species from the days of dinosaurs - the needle leaf wattle takes over 100 years to reach 9-10 meters - the local Pitta Pitta people use the wood to make many items including weapons.

Our camp on the King River north of Birdsville nestled amoung the trees.

Cacoory Ruins 80km north of Birdsville - one of the first properties Sir Sydney Kidman purchased in 1899

Next stop Birdsville.